Irish Seisiún Newsletter

I’m back
My 2-3-hour surgery turned into an 8 1/2-hour operation. In the process, I lost 1/5 of my lungs and the lymph nodes under my left arm. We think we got all the cancer, but I’m still waiting on the biopsies.
I want to thank all of you who took the time to send your prayers and best wishes. They really helped.
So, I’m sorry I missed last week’s newsletter, but here is the one for this week
Also, this edition is dedicated to a great Nurse at Memorial Sloan Kettering Hospital and her Grandfather. She was from the town of Pearl River, NY, a predominantly Irish enclave where I raised my family. Both she and her Grandfather play Irish music and enjoy all things Irish. Enjoy!
Tommy Mac

My September 11, 2001 cancer was treatable.
But since 2001, there have been over 600 additional deaths
just among firefighters who responded to the World Trade Center.
Many other responders and civilians are still paying the price.
Don’t let Sept 11 ever be forgotten
Tommy Mac

This Week’s Session 2
We had a nice session today, quiet in the pub, except for us most of the afternoon.
Find out what’s happening at Tim Finnegan’s this month.
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Click here to view calendar
Finnegan’s supports us…Let’s support them!
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“That’s How I Spell Ireland”
Saturdays at 7 to 8 PM EST.
You can listen on 88.7FM or WRHU.org.
For a request please text me on 917 699-4768.Kevin and Joan Westley
Note: Show will be preempted whenever the NY Islanders have a Saturday game
Recent Mail

Travel in Ireland

Croagh Patrick in County Mayo
FAVOURITE PLACES IN IRELAND
Croagh Patrick, County Mayo.
Croagh Patrick, or “the Reek,” is one of Ireland’s most famous pilgrimage sites. Standing 764 meters tall, it’s deeply connected to Saint Patrick, who reportedly fasted at its summit in 441 AD.
Every year, thousands climb the mountain, often barefoot, on “Reek Sunday.” Not a pilgrimage to take lightly!
Check out this video about hiking “the Reek” here, or listen to this rendition of the classic “Red and Green of Mayo”.
Irish Language
Tír gan Teanga, Tír gan Anam:
A land without a language is a land without a soul.


Dia duit a Tom,
Ta suil agam go bhfuil tu go maith !
The old people of Ireland had a wonderfully vivid way of telling you to mind your own business and stop borrowing trouble, and they said it with a humble little stool.

Na bris do loirgin ar stol nach bhfuil i do shli
Naw brish du lorgeen air stole nach will ih du hlee
Don’t break your shin on a stool that’s not in your way!
It is a whole philosophy in one small stool.
A witty and wise old proverb reminding us not to go looking for trouble, to make our own path, and to leave well enough alone, for most of our worries are ones we walked into ourselves!
There are a couple other expressions with similar meanings such as:
Fag an rud nach mbaineann leat
Fawg on rud nach manann lath
Leave alone what doesn’t concern you
Is fear ciunas na caint
Iss far coonass naw canch
Silence is better than talk.
Sin e inniu.
Slan agus beannacht.
Anita
Free Irish Classes
The classes are over zoom and are held at 12:00 eastern time the 1 st Sunday of every month.
It is basic conversational Irish and open to learners of all ages, especially beginners.
All are invited.
Hope to see you there!
slan go foill.
Le dea ghui,
Anita

click here to register
This week’s Irish Recipe
Delicious Irish fish pie recipe
This Irish fish pie recipe from Bord Bia, Ireland’s food board, is always a family favorite, easy to prepare, and super filling!

Experts recommend that we eat two portions of fish a week and this family fish pie is a great way to get fish into your diet!
This healthy family favorite Irish fish pie recipes come directly from Ireland’s food board, Bord Bia. It’s sure to be a favorite among your friends and family and a major plus is that it’s super filling and chocked full of flavor.
Irish fish pie recipe
Serves: 6 people Time: 1 h
Nutrition per serving: kcal 397kcal / protein 30g / iron 1.5mg / carbs 38g
Ingredients
- 600g fish, e.g. haddock, hake, monkfish, trout, skinned and boned
- 600ml milk
- 1/2 onion
- 1 bay leaf
- 6 peppercorns
- 20g butter
- 20g plain flour
- 2 tomatoes, skinned and sliced
- 3 tablesp. flat-leaf parsley, chopped
- 1 tablesp. lemon juice
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method
- Preheat the oven to Gas Mark 6 (200°C/400°F).
- Place the milk, onion, bay leaf, and peppercorns in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, add the fish, and cook gently for 4-5 minutes. Remove the fish from the pan, let it cool slightly, then flake it into bite-sized pieces and place it in a bowl.
- Melt the butter in a saucepan, then stir in the flour. Cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring constantly, until golden brown. Gradually stir in the fish cooking liquid until the mixture comes to a boil, then season with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat and allow to simmer gently for 3-4 minutes until thickened.
- Now add the sauce to the fish along with the parsley and lemon juice and taste for seasoning.
- Spoon half of the fish mixture into a 1½-liter baking dish, arrange the sliced tomatoes on top, then spoon in the rest of the fish.
- Spread the mashed potatoes on top, finely sprinkle the cheese all over, and bake in the oven for 15-20 minutes until heated through and browned.
Bord Bia’s Quality Kitchen
Bord Bia’s Quality Kitchen has a large collection of recipes, a mix of traditional and modern, from party snacks and starters to main courses and desserts for every occasion. The emphasis is on lean meat and poultry, fresh fish and eggs, high-fiber fruits and vegetables, lots of fresh herbs for added flavor, and much less reliance on high-fat sauces or excessive salt.
So whether time, budget, healthy eating, or just delicious meals are your concern, there is a lot for you to enjoy.
For more recipes, visit Bord Bia.
*Originally published in June 2021. Updated in 2026.
Poem of the Week

September 1913
By William Butler Yeats

- Stanza 1 (Materialism and Piety): Yeats opens with sharp contempt for the contemporary Irish middle class. He accuses them of being obsessed with counting money (“fumble in a greasy till”) and offering hollow, fearful prayers, draining the life and soul (“marrow”) out of the country. He concludes that “Romantic Ireland’s dead and gone, / It’s with O’Leary in the grave”—referencing John O’Leary, a deceased Fenian leader and Yeats’s late mentor. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]
- Stanza 2 (The Exiled Patriots): The speaker shifts to past generations of rebels and exiles—the “Wild Geese”—who travelled the world for a cause rather than staying home to accumulate wealth. He repeats the mournful refrain, asserting that the fiery spirit of the past is buried with O’Leary. [1, 2, 3]
- Stanza 3 (Historical Martyrs): Yeats invokes legendary Irish nationalist heroes who gave their lives in the rebellion of 1798: Edward Fitzgerald, Robert Emmet, and Wolfe Tone. He questions whether all that “delirium of the brave” and spilled blood was meant to result in today’s small-minded, money-obsessed populace. [1, 2]
- Stanza 4 (Complex Legacy): The final stanza imagines calling the dead back, but complicates the hero-worship. Yeats suggests that these martyrs were driven not just by abstract politics, but also by raw, human passions (like a “woman’s yellow hair”). He notes that they weighed lightly what they gave, ending with a slightly altered refrain that accepts the dead are gone and reduced to human memory rather than grand myth
Stories and Tales

Hudson Valley Irish Fest
to honor Irish American 9/11 FDNY hero this month
The Hudson Valley Irish Fest 2026 will mark both the 25th anniversary of 9/11 and the 250th anniversary of the United States.

The 17th Annual Hudson Valley Irish Fest, hosted by the Hudson Valley Irish Fest Inc. and Hudson Valley Irish Center, returns to Peekskill Riverfront Green Park on Saturday, September 19.
This year’s Festival carries particular significance, marking both the 25th anniversary of the September 11th attacks and the 250th anniversary of the United States.
In the aftermath of 9/11, Peekskill and Cortlandt’s Irish community played a central role in designing and building Peekskill’s WTC 9/11 Memorial, located adjacent to the Festival grounds.
During the Irish Fest on September 19, a bench honoring Mike O’Hanlon — a Hudson Valley Irish Fest member, All-Ireland accordion champion, and FDNY firefighter — will be dedicated at the Memorial in his memory and in memory of all who were lost.
Born to Irish parents and raised in the Bronx, O’Hanlon participated extensively with his fellow FDNY firefighters in the rescue and recovery efforts at Ground Zero.
In August 2017, at the age of 59, he passed away from 9/11-related cancer.

Hudson Valley Irish Fest 2026 lineup
Running from 11 am to 7 pm, the Irish Fest will officially open at 12 pm with a Civic Opening ceremony on the main stage. Participation from the Irish Consulate General and several elected legislators is expected.
The lineup for the Irish Festival’s main stage this year includes Shilelagh Law, Amadans, and Phineas & Lonely Leaves, The T Mccann Band, Donie Carroll, and Mary Courtney.
Attendees can also expect Irish dancers, bagpipers, a spoken word tent, fine crafts, 18th-century toys and crafts, and a Hibernian Tent hosted by the Fighting 69th, Division 18 Hibernians.
Food and beverages will be available throughout the grounds, including a beer garden.
How to get to the Hudson Valley Irish Fest
The Irish Fest is easily reached via the MTA Metro-North Hudson Line, with the Peekskill train station immediately adjacent to Riverfront Green.
Free parking is also available on site.
Tickets for the Hudson Valley Irish Fest 2026
Tickets for the Hudson Valley Irish Fest 2026 are available online via Eventbrite.
About the Hudson Valley Irish Fest
Founded in 2009, Hudson Valley Irish Fest grew out of a community vision for a riverfront festival that could give rise to a lasting cultural organization.
Today, with support from Ireland’s Department of Foreign Affairs Emigrant Support Programme, the Westchester County Board of Legislators, and an all-volunteer base of residents and business owners across the City of Peekskill, the Town of Cortlandt, and surrounding towns in Westchester and Putnam Counties, the Festival has grown into one of the region’s signature celebrations of Irish heritage — funding the Hudson Valley Irish Center and Library at Assumption Church in Peekskill.
You can learn more about the Hudson Valley Irish Fest on its website, Facebook, and Instagram pages.
Céad Míle Fáilte, and you are very welcome to this week’s Letter from Ireland.

The weather is drifting into autumn mode here in Ireland and the rains have just returned with a bang! How are things in your part of the world today?
I’m having a cup of Lyons Tea as I write, and I do hope you’ll have a cup of whatever you fancy yourself as we start into today’s letter.
Last week I shared some Norman surnames typically found in Ireland (Fitzgerald etc.) and asked our readers to share some of the Norman surnames in their Irish family trees. It turns out that there is a real hunger out there for Irish surname information, so I thought I’d widen the net this morning and comment on some of the more numerous Irish surnames.
You see, when people sign up for our weekly Letter from Ireland, I ask them to share the Irish surnames (and county of origin) in their family tree. Over the years we have built up a large database of surnames (28,000 and counting) – and use this information to help inform many of our weekly letters.
So, that is what we will do today. I had a look back over our database during the week to uncover the Top 10 most numerous Irish surnames amongst our readers. Perhaps one or two of your own Irish surnames will be on this list?
The Top 10 Irish Surnames In Our Readers’ Family Trees.
Let’s take a tour of the Top 10 most numerous Irish surnames provided to us, in reverse order. Are any of your Irish surnames here?
- Collins.
At first glance, this looks like an English surname, but most people named Collins in Ireland are of Irish Gaelic origin. The main clan (O’Collins) originated in what is now County Limerick, but spread south-west into County Cork over the centuries. You will also find a smaller group in the west of Ulster who were originally McCollins.
- Murray.
This one might be a surprise to some, but it turns out we have a lot of Murrays reading our weekly letter! Most Murrays in east Ulster are of Scottish origin, but there are also the Irish Gaelic O’Murrys of Roscommon/Galway and the McMurrays of County Donegal. Finally, you will find some smaller Irish Gaelic septs of Murrays/Murrihys in County Clare and County Down. It can also be an alternative anglicisation for surnames like Murphy around the Wexford area.
- O’Connor.
Conor (originally “Conchubhar”) was a common boy’s name in Ireland in ancient times and so later found its way into a number of surnames. The most important branch was in Connacht (Galway and Roscommon) and provided us with the last High King of Ireland. There were further sub-branches of that clan in County Sligo – and separate families of O’Connors in counties Offaly, Kerry, Clare and Derry.
- O’Brien.
Brian Boru led the Dál gCáis tribe from their base in what is now County Clare and his direct descendants named themselves in his honour – “descendants of Brian”. This family surname is now found across Ireland, but probably most numerous in County Cork as well as counties Clare, Limerick, Tipperary and Waterford.
- Ryan.
The majority of Ryans came out of what is now north County Tipperary, where it is the most numerous surname and was originally called “Mulryan” in those parts. There is also a separate clan of Ryans in County Carlow – which you will also find spread across counties Wicklow, Kilkenny and Wexford.
- McCarthy.
The leading family of the Eoghanacht tribe, who were long-time kings of Munster. Today, it is mostly found across the southern half of the island, especially to the south-west in Counties Kerry and Cork. Some readers ask if surnames with a “Mac” (meaning “son of”) are Scottish and “O”s (meaning “descendant of”) are Irish, but here is an example of a very numerous surname of Irish origin that begins with a “Mac”.
- Walsh (also spelled Walshe/Welsh).
This is the most numerous Irish surname of Anglo-Norman origin. It literally means a “person from Wales” – and was a generic name given to many of the foot soldiers who accompanied the Norman knights on their first forays into Ireland from Wales. It is found among many unconnected families in different parts of the country and is now the fourth most numerous surname in Ireland, as well as the fourth most numerous among our readers. You will find the name in quantity in counties Wexford, Waterford, Cork, Kilkenny, Tipperary as well as in County Mayo.
Next, on to our Top 3 Irish Surnames:
- Sullivan.
This is the most numerous surname across the southern counties of Munster, especially in Counties Cork and Kerry. It also happens to be the third most numerous both in Ireland and amongst our readers. They were part of the Eoghanacht tribe under the McCarthys (see above).
I have written it “Sullivan” rather than “O’Sullivan” as that was how it was provided by our readers. You see, at the time of highest emigration from Ireland (the mid-1800s), the habit of putting an “O” before a surname was almost extinct in Ireland. As a result, the “Sullivans” who emigrated stayed with that form, as did most of their descendants.
However, there was a reintroduction of the “O”s in surnames by the early 1900s across Ireland and, as a result, most Sullivans in Ireland today are “O’Sullivan”. So, if you think that your family had the “O” removed after they emigrated, that is probably not the case.
- Kelly.
This surname is derived from a popular boy’s name (Ceallach) and was used by many unconnected clans in Ireland. However, the most important were the O’Kellys of the Uí Maine sept in what is now counties Galway and Roscommon. Separate groups of Kellys can also be found in counties Derry, Galway, Laois (Queen’s County), Meath and Wicklow.
And now, on to Number 1:
- Murphy.
Murphy is the most numerous surname both amongst our readers and in Ireland today. This is probably down to its prevalence in so many distinct areas on the island of Ireland, and especially in those that were most affected by emigration from the 1840s. There were the various “O’Murphy” clans – but also the “McMurphys” in Ulster. Murphy is most numerous in the following counties (in descending order): Cork, Wexford, Kilkenny, Kerry, Armagh, Tipperary, Down, Carlow, Mayo, Limerick and Waterford.
So, a question for you this week: Are any of your Irish surnames in our Top 10?
Maybe you’re surprised that a surname of yours is NOT in the top 10?
Do hit reply and let me know. We can’t respond to everyone, but Carina and I read every single reply, and we love hearing from you.
Thank you for reading and sharing this Letter.
Slán for now,
Mike
P.S. Before you go, can I ask you something?
Every Sunday, this Letter goes out free to tens of thousands of readers around the world.
There is no publisher behind it, no advertising department, and no sponsor deciding what we should write about next. It is still just Carina and me here in Cork, following whatever story catches our curiosity that week.
That is only possible because just over a thousand readers have chosen to become Plus supporters and help carry the Letter for everyone else.
If you enjoy having this little piece of Ireland arrive in your inbox each Sunday, perhaps you might become one of them.
You’ll find “Support the Letter” just below.
With sincere thanks,
Mike and Carina

Ireland in autumn:
The festivals, feasts and fall magic you won’t want to miss
From orchard feasts in Armagh to Samhain magic in Meath, this is the season Ireland shows its true colors.

Ireland in autumn is a season of color, culture, and celebration. As September and October arrive, the island shifts into harvest mode, festival mode, and Halloween (Samhain, as it is known traditionally) mode all at once. Markets brim with fresh produce, orchards open their gates, walking trails glow with fall foliage, and some of Ireland’s most iconic festivals take center stage. If you’re planning a trip this season, here are the experiences that make autumn in Ireland unforgettable.
Celebrate Ireland’s harvest season
September is peak harvest time, and there’s no better place to experience it than Armagh, Ireland’s orchard county. Home of the PGI-protected Bramley apple, Armagh celebrates the season with cider making, apple pressing and orchard tours that bring visitors right into the heart of Ireland’s autumn traditions. Across the island, farmers’ markets like St George’s Market in Belfast and The English Market in Cork are at their most vibrant, filled with seasonal produce and local treats.
Festivals that bring Ireland to life
Fall is festival season, and September and October are packed with events that showcase Ireland’s creativity, music and food culture.
- Armagh Food and Cider Weekend: (September 3rd to 6th) A four-day celebration set among Armagh’s famous orchards. Expect tastings, tours, long-table dinners, and plenty of freshly pressed cider.

- Cork Jazz Festival: (October 22nd to 26th) One of Europe’s great jazz gatherings, filling Cork’s streets, pubs, and venues with world-class performances.

- Walking Festivals Across Ireland: September and October are ideal for exploring Ireland’s kaleidoscope of colored forests and coastlines. Events like the Wee Binnian Walking Festival in County Down (September 11th to September 13th) turn a simple hike into a guided, scenic adventure.

Whale watching on the Wild Atlantic Way
Autumn is one of the best times to spot whales on Ireland’s west coast. Whether it’s Dingle Sea Safari, Achill Island Sea Cruises, or Blasket Islands Eco Marine Tours, you won’t be short of reliable and knowledgeable companies to go with.
Ireland: The Home of Halloween
October belongs to Halloween, and the island of Ireland celebrates it like nowhere else. The tradition began here over 2,000 years ago with the Celtic festival of Samhain, and today the island hosts some of the world’s most spectacular Halloween events.
- Derry Halloween: (October 28th to November 1st) Who are celebrating 40 years this year. This festival transforms the city with parades, installations, haunted experiences, and firelit storytelling. Derry Halloween

- Púca Festival in Meath: (30th October to the 2nd of November) A modern celebration of Samhain with music, myth, folklore, and atmospheric night-time events.

For those who want an extra thrill, paranormal tours at Crumlin Road Gaol in Belfast or Leap Castle in Offaly offer spine-tingling autumn nights.
Cozy cafés and traditional pubs
Autumn in Ireland practically demands a stop in a warm café or a traditional pub. Whether it’s an Irish coffee in Limerick (the home of the Irish coffee by the way), a slice of fresh bread at Tracey’s in County Down or a fireside music session in a rural pub, these moments are part of the season’s variety and authentic experiences.
Why autumn is one of the best times to visit Ireland
The fall is a time when the island slows down, lights up, and leans into its traditions, and visitors get to enjoy Ireland at its most atmospheric. From fireside pubs and castle stays spun from storybooks to festivals that stir the soul, Ireland goes beyond expectations… season after season, its welcome warms you through. The sound of Irish music drifts on the air, a rhythm that lingers long after you’ve gone.
There is no off-season here. In the quieter months, Ireland opens further with softer crowds, deeper moments, landscapes breathing mist and light, and a calendar alive with events that feel truly one of a kind. Now is the time to start planning your vacation.

This is no ordinary holiday. The island of Ireland invites you in. Here, you’re not just a visitor; our locals welcome you like one of our own.
Our island is both charming and epic. From the pastel seaside homes in Cobh to the rugged landscape of the Wild Atlantic Way, roam hills filled with castles, forage for oysters in Galway Bay, experience fine dining paired with generosity in our cities, feel the visceral views in the North, and hear traditional Irish music drifting around every corner. Wherever you wander, you’ll find a story to tell.
Visit Ireland, the island that goes beyond.
This article is presented proudly in partnership with Tourism Ireland. To learn more about Tourism Ireland and get inspired for your next visit to Ireland, check out their website at Ireland.com.

Céad Míle Fáilte, and you are very welcome to this week’s Letter from Ireland. We’ve come to the end of a long dry spell across much of Ireland and the farmers are hurriedly harvesting the barley, leaving a lovely patchwork of gold and green across the fields. How are things in your part of the world today?
Let me start today by asking if you have any traditions in your family that go back a long time? Maybe it’s all getting together on a particular holiday, or always visiting a special place once a year – and you can’t remember quite how it started.
But imagine if there were a tradition in your neighbourhood that went back a thousand years or more. A tradition that went back so far that it had been mentioned in the history books and tied up with events that still occupy the national psyche. It is such an Irish tradition that I want to chat about today – the pilgrimage to Lough Derg in Donegal, which has been going on in one form or another for well over a thousand years.
So, I’m having a cup of Barry’s tea as I write and hope you will join me now with a cup of whatever you fancy yourself as we start into today’s letter.
Would Your Irish Ancestors Have Gone Barefoot for Three Days?

Photo AI-generated by Tommy Mac
“Well, how did you get on at Lough Derg?”
I was asking my friend Mary, who goes on pilgrimage to Lough Derg every other July.
“Sure grand, it was the same grand experience as usual.”
Mary knows that those of us who have never done Lough Derg can never really know what it feels like. She gave up trying to entice Carina and me to join her some time ago.
Maybe next year?
But our conversation got me wondering. Would your Irish ancestors have gone on pilgrimage to Lough Derg?
There is an old story that in the year 1152 Tiernan O’Rourke, king of Breifne, went on pilgrimage to a place called Lough Derg in what is now County Donegal. While there, he received word that his wife Dervorgilla was abducted by another Irish king, Diarmait Mac Murchada of Leinster.
This is a story that has been told for centuries: O’Rourke was away doing penance while his great rival carried off his wife. There is some history behind it, but we need to be a little careful with the details.
You see, in 1152, several Irish kings had combined against O’Rourke and driven him from part of his territory. During that conflict, Dervorgilla was taken away by Diarmait Mac Murchada along with her cattle and possessions. She was returned to O’Rourke the following year.
So, did Tiernan O’Rourke first hear the news while on pilgrimage at Lough Derg? Possibly. It is certainly an old tradition, and I like the sound of it! What we do know is that O’Rourke never forgot how he had been betrayed while at a place of prayer. Fourteen years later, in 1166, he was among those who finally drove Diarmait Mac Murchada from Ireland, taking revenge for what had happened to his wife. Diarmait sailed over to Britain and looked for help from Henry II, king of England. Henry then gave permission to recruit among his lords, and Diarmait found willing supporters among the Norman lords settled in south Wales.
And so, he returned to Ireland in 1167 with a small force, and in 1169 a much larger Cambro-Norman force landed on the Wexford coast. Strongbow followed in 1170, and Henry II himself arrived in Ireland the following year. From those events grew the Anglo-Norman conquest of Ireland and the long involvement of the English Crown in Irish affairs.
But this story became attached to Lough Derg, and shows that by the twelfth century Lough Derg was already a well-known place.
A Pilgrimage Known Across Europe
The Lough Derg that I am talking about lies near the modern village of Pettigo in County Donegal, close to the border with County Fermanagh.
Christian pilgrimage in the area goes back to the early centuries of the Church in Ireland. An early monastery was established there and, over time, the lake became associated with St Patrick himself. According to tradition, Patrick spent time fasting and praying in a cave there and was shown a vision of what lay beyond death. The cave, located on the island, became known as St Patrick’s Purgatory.
By the later Middle Ages, people were travelling to Lough Derg from far beyond Ireland. We know of medieval pilgrims travelling to Lough Derg from places such as France, Italy and Hungary, and its fame became so great that it appeared on European maps at a time when very few places in Ireland made an appearance on any maps.
The authorities tried more than once to stop the pilgrimage. The famous cave was ordered closed in 1497, and there were further attempts at suppression during the 17th and 18th centuries. But people continued to make the journey, and over time the main pilgrimage moved from Saints Island to nearby Station Island.
That is the island that my friend Mary travels to every second July.
Would Your Own People Have Gone?
So, would any of your Irish ancestors have taken a pilgrimage to Lough Derg? Quite possibly, but the problem is that your great-great-grandmother and her family may have walked for days to reach Lough Derg, spent three days on the island, and then walked home again without leaving a single record of their presence there.
Isn’t that true of so much of the ordinary lives of our ancestors? We can often easily discover where somebody lived, who they married, how much land they had and where their children were baptised, but we rarely know where they went when they were living through the cycle of their days and years. And pilgrimage belonged to that cycle of life.
There were old pilgrim roads leading towards Lough Derg, and groups travelled there from parishes and dioceses around Ireland. For families in Ulster and north Connacht in particular, Lough Derg would have been a well-known part of their world. There may well have been someone in your own family who made the journey with other family members.
What Mary Does Every Other July
What surprises me the most is how demanding the pilgrimage still is. When you arrive at the mainland centre near Pettigo, you begin your fast at midnight and take the short boat journey across to Station Island. Once there, your shoes come off and remain off for the duration of your stay.
Over the three days you complete nine Stations, each involving a sequence of prayers around the basilica, the old penitential beds and the crosses on the island. At St Brigid’s Cross you face the lake and renounce “the World, the Flesh and the Devil”, and at the penitential beds you walk around the old stone circles and kneel to pray.
There is one simple meal each day of toast or oatcakes, along with tea or coffee, but without milk. You may also hear pilgrims talking about “Lough Derg soup”, meaning hot water with salt and pepper added. I’m sure that when you are hungry enough it tastes surprisingly good. But then comes the part that has always made Carina and me hesitate.
On the first night, the vigil begins and you remain awake through the night and through the following day, completing more prayers and Stations. You finally sleep on the second night and leave the island the following morning, but continue fasting until midnight.
So that’s three days of walking barefoot and fasting, with nine Stations and without a full night’s sleep. Yet people like Mary come back and do it again.
Whenever I see Mary at this time of year, she brings to mind all the people who must have crossed that short stretch of water over the centuries. They went because they had something to pray for, or something to give thanks for. But I suspect plenty of them went for another reason too – because their parents and grandparents had gone before them.
So, let me leave you with a question for this week.
Did your parents or grandparents ever talk about going somewhere special every year – to Lough Derg, a holy well, a shrine, a pattern day or some other place that mattered to the family? Maybe it was in Ireland, or maybe it was a tradition they carried with them after they emigrated.
Do reply and let me know. [email protected]
Thank you for reading and sharing this Letter.
Slán for now,
Mike.
P.S. One more question before you go.
Every Sunday, this Letter lands in your inbox for free. No publisher, no advertising, no corporate backing. Just Carina and me at the kitchen table here in Cork.
It stays free because just over a thousand readers have chosen to become Plus supporters and help carry it for everyone else.
If these letters have earned a place in your week, will you join them? See “Support the Letter” below.
With sincere thanks,
Mike and Carina


1,000-year-old manuscript recording St. Patrick’s Ireland
goes on display in Cork
“The Annals of Inisfallen,” unseen in Ireland for more than 40 years, has come home for a landmark exhibition at University College Cork.

One of the oldest and most treasured records of Irish history is back on Irish soil for the first time in decades.
“The Annals of Inisfallen,” a manuscript that traces Ireland’s story before and after the arrival of St. Patrick, is now on free public display at University College Cork (UCC).
Close to 1,000 years old and handwritten in Irish and Latin, the 57 vellum leaves of the “Annals” form a year-by-year account of medieval Irish life.
The text opens with a fragmented history of pre-Christian Ireland, running from ancient times up to Patrick’s mission, before shifting into a detailed, contemporary chronicle of death, conflict, dramatic weather and unusual events, written by roughly 30 scribes between the 11th and 14th centuries. Later scribes extended the record into the 15th century.
The manuscript is going on public display in Ireland for the first time in 40 years, meaning Irish audiences can now view the original pages in person for the first time in a generation.
The “Annals” cover an epic sweep of Irish history. Invasions of Ireland by the mythical Tuatha Dé Danann, Viking raids on Skellig Michael off the Kerry coast, and the arrival of the Normans are all detailed in its pages. Much of the manuscript’s later, contemporary section focuses on west Munster, making it a vital source for the region’s history and for the development of the Irish language itself.
Scholars believe the manuscript was first copied at the monastery of Lismore in Co Waterford, drawing on material from Clonmacnoise in Co Offaly and Emly in Co Tipperary. In the 12th century, it made its way to west Munster, most likely to the island monastery of Inisfallen on Lough Leane near Killarney, Co Kerry, where scribes carried on the annual record for generations.
The manuscript later passed into the collection of 17th century historian Sir James Ware and eventually into the hands of collector Richard Rawlinson, whose bequest brought it to the Bodleian Libraries at the University of Oxford, where it has remained for more than 250 years. Its temporary return to Cork reflects a partnership between UCC and Oxford built around shared cultural heritage.
Pádraig Ó Macháin, Professor of Modern Irish at UCC, called the Annals “this powerful, all-action history book” and said it stands as “a monument to the work of a multitude of scribes who facilitated the transition from Latin to Irish as the language of record and scholarship, a language that, remarkably, is still very much with us.”
UCC President John O’Halloran said the manuscript is “one of the great treasures of Ireland’s written heritage” and that the exhibition offers visitors “an opportunity to engage with a manuscript that has shaped our understanding of medieval Ireland.” He added that the goal was “to inspire new audiences to discover the richness of our shared history and the extraordinary work of the scribes who preserved it.”
Richard Ovenden, Bodley’s Librarian and the Helen Hamlyn Director of University Libraries, said the Bodleian was “delighted to collaborate with University College Cork to exhibit the Annals of Inisfallen in Ireland for the first time in over forty years.” He added that letting the public “view and get up close with this much treasured manuscript” would deepen appreciation for the medieval period and for the shared work of libraries in preserving the past.
Minister of State for Nature, Heritage and Biodiversity Christopher O’Sullivan, whose department helped fund the exhibition, drew a direct line between the manuscript and the Kerry landscape it came from. “The story of Inisfallen is deeply woven into the history of Killarney National Park,” he said.
“I hope this exhibition inspires everyone to explore the story of Inisfallen, to reflect on the remarkable legacy preserved within the Annals, and to appreciate the enduring connections between landscape, history and identity.”
The exhibition offers a rare chance to stand before a document that helped shape how the world understands Ireland’s early Christian era and the legacy of St. Patrick himself. The manuscript remains on free public view at the Glucksman through November 1.
More information is available at UCC.ie.
This month in history: The Spanish land at Kinsale in 1601
For the Battle of Kinsale, the Spanish sailed to try to free Ireland from the British. On September 2, 1601, 33 ships sailed from Lisbon to Ireland.

In September 1601, a Spanish fleet of 28 ships occupied the Irish port at Kinsale with about 3,300 men.
Throughout the history of British occupation, the Irish dreamed of rescue from either France or Spain, Catholic countries that were sworn enemies of the English.
One of the most famous songs of the period was “My Dark Rosaleen” which stood for Ireland. The first verse includes the line “And Spanish ale shall give you hope My Dark Rosaleen.”
The French intervention is well remembered in connection with the 1798 rebellion, but the Spanish effort is less so. It also came close to a major victory with the Northern leaders Hugh O’Neill and Hugh O’Donnell coming to help. When the Spanish and Irish were defeated, the “Flight of the Earls” began.
On September 2, 1601, thirty-three ships sailed from Lisbon to Ireland. In total, there were 4,432 men under the leadership of the Don Juan del Águila and Francisco de Toledo Tercios. Del Águila held the supreme command of the expedition as its General Field Master. The aim was to take the port of Cork, the key southern port of the island, and hold it for a larger Spanish landing.
A strong gale dispersed the fleet near the island of Ouessant. The admiral, Diego Brochero, managed to reach Kinsale on October 1 with the greater part of the vessels. Thus, most men were able to land on Irish soil, but eight or nine ships under Pedro de Zubiaur, along with 650 soldiers and most of the provisions, returned to Galicia.
As soon as they landed, the fleet returned to Spain in search of reinforcements. Juan del Águila stayed with 3,000 men isolated in Kinsale. Allied troops were far from the town, and so they could only get 900 poorly armed rookies. He decided to fortify the camp and wait for reinforcements. At the entrance of the bay, he had built two forts: Castle Park and Ringcurran.
An English army of 10,000 infantry, 600 horsemen, and several cannons under the command of Charles Blount, VIII Baron of Mountjoy, soon came. Additionally, a small fleet blockaded the harbor.
In November, Mountjoy ordered an attack on Kinsale. The British took the Ringcurran fort but were ultimately rejected. Soon after, Juan del Águila made an offer of surrender, which was rejected.
From the north of the island, Hugh O’Neill, Earl of Tyrone, and Red Hugh O’Donnell, Lord of Tyrconnell, headed toward Kinsale in command of 5,500 men. In Spain, Pedro de Zabiaur left port on December 7, commanding ten ships with 829 soldiers and ample provisions and ammunition. But a new storm caused four ships to get lost. The rest managed to reach Castlehaven, about 48 km south of Kinsale on December 11.
Blount, alerted to the presence of a new Spanish force in Ireland, sent a fleet of seven ships to Castlehaven. On December 16, after five hours of fighting, the English were only able to sink the galleon Maria Francisca and, unable to take the port, defended by a battery of five guns, fled the scene.
On the morning of December 16, 1,500 men left Kinsale to try to break the siege. They managed to destroy twenty guns and kill more than seven hundred English, but they had to return to the city, unable to cross enemy lines. Spanish casualties were relatively low, which encouraged the troops.
After the victory against the English in Castlehaven, the nobles of the area swore allegiance to the King of Spain (then Philip III) and provided 550 infantry and a company of cavalry. In addition, the castles of Dunboy (near Castletownbere) and Donneshed (near Baltimore) were given to the Spanish forces.
The rebel army, coming from the north, finally managed to link with the Spanish, then decided to help Juan del Águila. But Zabiaur did not want to lose control of a number of places from Castlehaven to Baltimore that could be used for future landings. So he divided his troops, giving the Irish army 200 auxiliary infantry while he and the other men secured positions. So, just under 6,500 men set off for Kinsale.
At that time, the English army had been reduced to 8,000 men due to casualties from the Spanish, disease, and desertion.
On January 3, the two armies met at Kinsale. The lack of coordination between the rescue army and the besieged, coupled with the disorganization of the Irish and the superiority of the English cavalry, turned the Battle of Kinsale into a major defeat for the Spanish-Irish coalition.
The Irish began the attack but were repulsed by the English. Under pressure from the English army, some Irish began to abandon the fight. After that, the English cavalry launched a counterattack, which drove them back, and the Irish army fled. The cavalry then began to chase them, causing heavy casualties among the deserters. The intervention of the Spanish infantry prevented greater carnage at the expense of 90 deaths and 52 prisoners. Juan del Águila left the city with his men, but it was already late, and they were rejected. In total, 1,200 Irish died at Kinsale.
On January 12, Juan del Águila surrendered. The terms of the surrender forced the Spanish to surrender their palaces and castles in Kinsale, Castlehaven, Dunboy, Donneshed, and Donnelong (on the island of Sherkin). In return, the Spanish army (then reduced to 1,800 men) and all the Irish who so wished would receive supplies and transport to return to Spain. Also, they would keep their weapons, flags, and money.
On January 14, just two days later, Martín de Vallecina arrived in Kinsale with reinforcements but returned to Spain as soon as he learned of the surrender.
* Originally published in 2014. Updated in September 2026.
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* Originally published in Aug 2016. Updated in 2026.
News From Ireland
Get shucking! September marks the start of Oyster season in Ireland!
As the native oysters of Ireland come back into season, September heralds a fresh wave of briny delights, from wild Galway flats to Atlantic-kissed farms.

Every September, Ireland’s shores come alive with the return of its beloved native oysters—a culinary tradition rooted in centuries of coastal culture. With festivals, farm tours, and iconic venues across the country, it’s time to celebrate the season in full swing.
Oyster season in Ireland officially kicks off in September and runs through April—the months containing a reassuring “R,” a centuries-old rule of thumb that signals when native oysters (Ostrea edulis) are at their best Ireland. While legally the season may open earlier, it isn’t widely embraced until September brings that classic “R,” marking their return to prime condition.
Ireland’s history with oysters
Ireland’s rich oyster legacy goes back over 4,000 years, with cultivation traced to the 13th century, according to Trinity College Dublin. The cherished native flat oyster has long been the crown jewel—but due to overharvesting, pollution, disease, and harsh winters, numbers plummeted by the 19th century. In response, the Portuguese rock oyster was introduced (though no longer grown commercially), and later the resilient Pacific or “Irish rock” oyster (Magallana gigas) came into service in the 1970s, offering year-round availability and fast growth.
Today, Ireland produces close to 10,000 tonnes annually, with Donegal and Waterford accounting for around 60% of that production.

Ireland’s lengthy indented coastline (over 7,000 km) and the clean freshwater flowing over peatlands ensure oysters develop rich, briny, high-meat-content traits. Each bay imparts its own character, making every slurp unique and memorable.
Galway’s Global Showcase: The International Oyster & Seafood Festival
The highlight of the oyster calendar is the world-famous Galway International Oyster & Seafood Festival, held annually on the last weekend in September to herald the native oyster season. First launched in 1954 by hotel manager Brian Collins, then of the Great Southern Hotel, with just 34 guests, it has since become one of Ireland’s most iconic food festivals. The festival has been lauded by The Sunday Times as “one of the 12 greatest shows on earth” and listed as one of Europe’s “Seven Best Festivals” by the AA Travel Guide.
The festivities include the Irish and World Oyster Opening Championships, testing the fastest shuckers on the planet, plus family-friendly cooking demos, seafood trails, live music, parades, and Mardi Gras-style revelry. In 2025, the festival is scheduled from Friday, September 26th to Sunday, September 28th.

Top spots across Ireland to slurp oysters
Moran’s Oyster Cottage (Kilcolgan, near Galway): A rustic seafood pub in a thatched cottage dating back to the 1760s, Moran’s has long been the go-to for Galway Bay oysters and even inspired Seamus Heaney’s poem “Oysters.”
Achill Oysters (Achill Island, Co. Mayo): Atlantic-kissed oysters from this family-run farm on Achill Island are award-winning, earning the Euro-Toques Food Award for aquaculture in 2016.
Shelbourne Hotel (Dublin): On the east coast, this historic venue serves tens of thousands of oysters annually—sourcing from the likes of Carlingford, Sligo, Dungarvan, and Galway. An iconic pairing with Guinness or Champagne awaits.

English Market, Cork – Kay O’Connell’s & Farmgate Café: Sample freshly shucked oysters from the fishmonger’s counter at Kay O’Connell’s stall, then head upstairs to the Farmgate Café for a calmer wine-and-oysters experience.
DK Oysters (Connemara, near Letterfrack): For an immersive experience, visit this oyster farm (dating back to 1893) to learn oyster lore, tour Balinakill Bay, and shuck on site amid the wild beauty of Connemara.
A slurp worth the trip
For Irish-American readers yearning for a taste of home, or discovering it for the first time, September in Ireland offers the perfect oyster pilgrimage. Whether you’re chasing wild Galway flats at the festival, sampling the glossy shells at Moran’s, or shucking fresh-farmed oysters in Connemara, the season promises flavor, culture, and coastlines like nowhere else.
* Originally published in 2025 and updated in August 2026.
Louth goalkeeper among those trying to become an NFL kicker
Tiernan Markey was among 20 athletes who got to kick at half-time of this year’s Aer Lingus College Football Classic in Dublin.

Louth goalkeeper Tiernan Markey was among those at a try-out for American Football kicking last month to earn a scholarship.
The 20-year-old was part of the Louth panel this past campaign as reserve keeper. He was one of several young goalkeepers, including Dublin’s Sam Moloney and James McCaghy, in Ireland’s Kicking King talent spotting programme.
The programme took place across 10 events nationwide in August, with the final 20 getting to kick at half-time of last Saturday’s Aer Lingus College Football Classic at Aviva Stadium.
That group of 20 will now be whittled down to 10, who will train across September and October before going to Chicago to take part in an exhibition in the hope of landing a scholarship.
The organiser of the try-outs is former Connacht rugby player and kicker in the Canadian Football League Tadhg Leader, and he spoke to The42 about the high calibre of Gaelic footballers coming in. “I don’t watch a huge amount of football, but I know a lot of the athletes would have been going, ‘Jeez, that’s X player’ or ‘that’s Y player’ during the try-out evenings.
“These are the athletes themselves, so they would know them. So I wouldn’t really know the names, but we have had lads walk in the door, and then you find out he’s played X amount of times for his county.
“Some just came to learn about kicking because we had guys a few years ago, top Gaelic football players, do it and they learned more about kicking that they took back to their own sport. So some have no intention of going any further with this, it’s just to learn more about ball striking.”
Leader says that around 800 to 1,000 players tried out over August, and he thinks as many as 15 could earn a “life-changing” scholarship to the US later this year.
This programme was also the one that helped Charlie Smyth on his journey to joining the New Orleans Saints in the NFL, starting towards the end of last season.
*This article was originally published on Extra.ie.
Ireland just had its hottest summer ever on record, for the second year in a row
Met Éireann reveals that Ireland’s average Summer 2026 temperature was the highest ever recorded during June, July, and August.

Ireland has experienced what is provisionally the hottest summer since records began back in 1900 for the second year in a row, Met Éireann said in its Climate State for Summer 2026.
Ireland’s average temperature during the months of June, July, and August this year was 16.28°C (61.304°F).
The average temperature this summer was 0.09 °C warmer than the previous record of 16.19°C, which was only set in 2025.
It is also 2.03 °C above the long-term average for 1961-1990.
Met Éireann noted on Thursday that six of Ireland’s ten hottest summers have occurred since 2001, while provisional gridded rainfall data also shows summer 2026 was drier than average.

In its climate statement, Met Éireann said: “Summer 2026 saw high pressure dominating over most of western Europe with the jet stream, a band of high-level winds which steers weather systems around the globe, displaced to the north of Ireland through most of the season.
“Intense high-pressure systems known as heat domes extended north over Ireland on several occasions during the summer months, bringing prolonged periods of hot weather.”
Rainfall in Ireland during Summer 2026
Rainfall was below average in most places during Summer 2026, Met Éireann said on Thursday.
A partial drought – a period of at least 29 consecutive days when the mean daily rainfall does not exceed 0.2 mm – was recorded at Oak Park in Co Carlow, lasting 66 days from June 20 through August 24, making it the longest partial drought on record since 1941.
15 stations also saw partial droughts during the same period, lasting between 29 and 66 days.
12 stations, mostly in the Midlands, South and East, saw absolute droughts – a period of 15 or more consecutive days during which no day is credited with .2 mm or more of precipitation – between July 1 and July 28, lasting between 15 and 27 days.
All 25 stations saw dry spells – a period of 15 or more consecutive days during which no day is credited with 1.0 mm or more of precipitation – between July 1 and August 2, lasting between 19 and 33 days.
Temperature in Ireland during Summer 2026
14 stations, including all three Dublin stations and three Cork stations, reported their hottest summer on record, Met Éireann said on Thursday.
Eight stations reported their highest daily maximum temperature on record, and ten stations reported their highest daily minimum temperature on record.
Heatwaves occurred in both June and July, with the second-longest heatwave on record, 13 days, reported at Moore Park, Co Cork in July.
Eight stations saw a record number of summer days – when the temperature exceeds 25 °C – the highest of which was 23 summer days at Moore Park, Co Cork. The previous longest period of summer days in Moore Park was 15 in 2018 and 1989.
13 stations saw a record number of warm days – when the temperature exceeds 20 °C – the highest of which was 68 warm days at Phoenix Park, Co Dublin. The previous longest period of warm days in Phoenix Park was 64 in 1994.
Sunshine in Ireland during Summer 2026
Shannon Airport, Co Clare saw its sunniest summer since 1968, where the percentage of seasonal sunshine values was 129% (570.8 hours).
With a percentage of seasonal sunshine values at 132% (625.9 hours), Casement Aerodrome in Co Dublin saw its sunniest summer since 1995.
The highest number of daily sunshine hours recorded during Summer 2026 was 15.8 hours at Malin Head, Co Donegal on Tuesday, July 14.
The number of dull days – days with less than 0.5 hours of sunshine – ranged from seven days at both Dublin Airport and Casement Aerodrome, Co Dublin, to 21 days at Belmullet, Co Mayo.
Jokes
“SNL” finally makes a funny ‘Irish’ sketch – with the help of Paul Mescal
With its “Irish Americans” sketch, “SNL” is finally in on the “Irish” jokes.

What exactly do Irish Americans expect when they visit Ireland and tell the local bartender, unprompted, that they have Irish ancestors?
The question was tackled head-on in the (unfortunately) cut-for-time “Irish Americans” sketch that featured host and Co Kildare native Paul Mescal,
The unaired sketch from the December 9 episode of “SNL” is a welcome departure from the show’s “Irish” sketches of the past that relied on tired stereotypes – alcohol, potatoes, accents, and even Aer Lingus.
With Irish actor Mescal at the helm on December 9, some braced themselves for another “Irish” sketch in the same vein, but, thankfully, such a sketch did not materialize.
However, Mescal did – humorously! – clear up some “Irish stereotypes” in his monologue:
The cut-for-time “Irish Americans” sketch published by “SNL” on December 12 may have been set in a pub and featured some woeful Irish accents and fashion, but this time it was the Irish Americans who were the butt of the joke.
It’s a scenario that born-and-bred Irish people know all too well: the earnest Irish American visits Ireland and reveals that he, too, is Irish – a whole quarter!
Of course, Irish people – very generally speaking – don’t really care about a tourist’s distant Irish roots. The “SNL” sketch, which likely had some expert input from host Mescal, plays out what would happen if they did care.
In the sketch set in an Irish pub – which the tourists found on TripAdvisor – the bartender, played by Mescal, and punters are thrown into a fit of excitement when they learn that, as the bartender says, “a son of the soil has returned to us!”
In the sketch, it’s as if this tourist is the first American to visit Ireland. Imagine!
Desperate to learn more about the Irish American, there are soon questions about when the tourist’s ancestors left Ireland (the 1860s, he thinks) and what his surname is (Krzyzewski, but his grandmother’s maiden name is O’Connor).
The tourist’s partner – who isn’t Irish, but is 1/16 Scottish – notes the Irish American’s “gift of the gab” and the Celtic cross tattoo on his wrist, both of which further fuel the intense fascination of the locals.
Concluding the “Irish Americans” sketch, the group raises a toast as the tourist offers a hearty “slanch,” obviously an attempt at “sláinte.”
“He speaks our language!” the bartender, nearly maniacal with excitement, cheers.
With its “Irish Americans” sketch, “SNL” is finally in on the “Irish” jokes.
You can watch the “Irish Americans” skit from “SNL,” featuring Paul Mescal, here:

* This article was originally published in 2025 and updated in August 2026.
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